144. Ushanky
The traditional Russian winter hats known as 'ushanky' (that's the plural; singular is 'ushanka') are familiar to most people around the world, from their frequent appearances in movies and television programs, as well as in historical photographs from the Soviet era. These are the leather hats with thick wool or fur lining, and large ear flaps that can be tied up at the top or back of the head. Basically, part of the stereotypical outfit that Russians wear to stay warm during the winter.
Ushanky are part of the official uniform of all military and police units in Russia, so now that the weather is cold I see quite a few people wearing them every day. What I don't frequently see are civilians wearing ushanky. I have noticed people with modern versions - either with a brim at the front (so, more of a cap than a hat), or ushanky made of cloth rather than leather. But the most popular winter head coverings for men are knit caps, or just the hood of a heavy coat - similar to what people typically wear in the United States to stay warm. I asked some of my Russian friends about ushanky, and they confirmed that while these were generally popular in the 1970s, they are considered to be out of style these days. I've never let what's in or out of fashion stop me from wearing clothes that I like, so I've kept my eye out for the range of colors and styles in different stores that carry ushanky, and compared prices (predictably, stores along Nevsky Prospekt charge the most).
Most souvenir kiosks in the city center sell cheap tourist ushanky that are made out of artificial materials and dyed gaudy colors. I have no interest in putting a bright red, orange, pink, or yellow hat on my head, any of which would scream "tourist". But I do need to keep my head and ears warm as I hike all over the city this winter, so I've been interested in acquiring a higher-quality Russian hat - as a souvenir, sure, but mostly for functional purposes. And if my old-fashioned style choices single me out as a tourist, then so be it. At least I'll be warm!
Earlier this year, I found a store near Sennaya Ploshchad (the "Hay Market Square" immortalized in Dostoevsky's "Crime and Punishment") that has both the largest selection of hats and the lowest prices of any store that I've visited. After a week of sub-zero (Celsius) temperatures and an ear-tingling three-hour sightseeing excursion to the east side of the city center a week ago, I decided it was time to upgrade my headgear game. So, I returned to the shop and tried on all manner of hats, both traditional and modern styles. The proprietor and I were in agreement that a brown version of the traditional style looks the best on me, compared with the other eight or ten styles and colors that I tried on. Now I will be able to stay warm during the cold winters at 59.9343° North latitude.
Ushanky are part of the official uniform of all military and police units in Russia, so now that the weather is cold I see quite a few people wearing them every day. What I don't frequently see are civilians wearing ushanky. I have noticed people with modern versions - either with a brim at the front (so, more of a cap than a hat), or ushanky made of cloth rather than leather. But the most popular winter head coverings for men are knit caps, or just the hood of a heavy coat - similar to what people typically wear in the United States to stay warm. I asked some of my Russian friends about ushanky, and they confirmed that while these were generally popular in the 1970s, they are considered to be out of style these days. I've never let what's in or out of fashion stop me from wearing clothes that I like, so I've kept my eye out for the range of colors and styles in different stores that carry ushanky, and compared prices (predictably, stores along Nevsky Prospekt charge the most).
Most souvenir kiosks in the city center sell cheap tourist ushanky that are made out of artificial materials and dyed gaudy colors. I have no interest in putting a bright red, orange, pink, or yellow hat on my head, any of which would scream "tourist". But I do need to keep my head and ears warm as I hike all over the city this winter, so I've been interested in acquiring a higher-quality Russian hat - as a souvenir, sure, but mostly for functional purposes. And if my old-fashioned style choices single me out as a tourist, then so be it. At least I'll be warm!
Earlier this year, I found a store near Sennaya Ploshchad (the "Hay Market Square" immortalized in Dostoevsky's "Crime and Punishment") that has both the largest selection of hats and the lowest prices of any store that I've visited. After a week of sub-zero (Celsius) temperatures and an ear-tingling three-hour sightseeing excursion to the east side of the city center a week ago, I decided it was time to upgrade my headgear game. So, I returned to the shop and tried on all manner of hats, both traditional and modern styles. The proprietor and I were in agreement that a brown version of the traditional style looks the best on me, compared with the other eight or ten styles and colors that I tried on. Now I will be able to stay warm during the cold winters at 59.9343° North latitude.
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