153. Smolny Cathedral
The Smolny complex is located at the northeastern tip of the Tsentralny District, along the Neva River. This is primarily a residential area, and with the nearest Metro station approximately a 20-minute walk, few tourists venture in this direction. I was interested in visiting the Smolny Institute, which is where the military leaders situated their command center during the Siege of Leningrad and where many Communist Party officials worked during the Soviet period. Vladimir Putin also worked there in the 1990s. Even though Google Maps claims there is a museum in this complex ("Smolny Historical and Memorial Museum") this did not seem to be the case as the entire building is locked down tight and under military guard. Smolny is now used as a government building - it primarily serves as the official residence for the governor of St. Petersburg. Further research at home indicated that I may have been there after the museum was closed, but it's only open for pre-arranged group tours and quite expensive to see.
The Smolny Convent sits just to the north of the Smolny Institute. Just as at the Alexander Nevsky Monastery, I think that many of these buildings are still in active use for religious purposes (as well as for government offices, perhaps) and therefore not open for tours. However, the centerpiece of the convent complex is a sight worth seeing: Smolny Cathedral. The cathedral was designed by Francesco Rastrelli between 1748 and 1764. He is one of the most accomplished 18th-century architects in St. Petersburg, having also designed Catherine Palace, Peterhof Palace, Stroganov Palace, and the Winter Palace. He's probably a close second behind my favorite St. Petersburg architect, Carlo Rossi.
The Cathedral is currently being renovated inside, and it was interesting to watch the tradesmen hard at work (even though it was a weekend). What pushes the Cathedral into a top tier of destinations is the view from the top of the southern tower. Whereas the Colonnade atop St. Isaac's Cathedral has the best views of the city center but is crowded with throngs of visitors, the Smolny Cathedral tower still has great views in every direction but without anyone else there to spoil the mood. I looked around for approximately 10-15 minutes and I had the viewing platform all to myself for most of that time.
Inside the Cathedral:
The Bell Tower:
Smolny Institute:
Views of Smolny Cathedral and Convent from the east and north:
The Smolny Convent sits just to the north of the Smolny Institute. Just as at the Alexander Nevsky Monastery, I think that many of these buildings are still in active use for religious purposes (as well as for government offices, perhaps) and therefore not open for tours. However, the centerpiece of the convent complex is a sight worth seeing: Smolny Cathedral. The cathedral was designed by Francesco Rastrelli between 1748 and 1764. He is one of the most accomplished 18th-century architects in St. Petersburg, having also designed Catherine Palace, Peterhof Palace, Stroganov Palace, and the Winter Palace. He's probably a close second behind my favorite St. Petersburg architect, Carlo Rossi.
The Cathedral is currently being renovated inside, and it was interesting to watch the tradesmen hard at work (even though it was a weekend). What pushes the Cathedral into a top tier of destinations is the view from the top of the southern tower. Whereas the Colonnade atop St. Isaac's Cathedral has the best views of the city center but is crowded with throngs of visitors, the Smolny Cathedral tower still has great views in every direction but without anyone else there to spoil the mood. I looked around for approximately 10-15 minutes and I had the viewing platform all to myself for most of that time.
The main entrance from the west:
Inside the Cathedral:
The Bell Tower:
Smolny Institute:
Views of Smolny Cathedral and Convent from the east and north:
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